Baking at the Bleaklow Stones

by backpackingbongos

Geoff and Tilly offered their company for a short, sweet and sweaty night on Bleaklow in the Peak District. They were duly picked up from chez Crowther and transported to Old Glossop where I parked the car. This is a less than glamorous spot from which to start a walk onto the moors, a large factory dominating the end of Shepley Street. There is however plenty of parking close to the start of the Doctors Gate track.

Both of our packs weighed a tonne, or to be more accurate 20 kilos each. With a trip to Sarek getting closer I wanted to get used to a heavy pack on rough terrain. I had also dug out my old Lowe Alpine ‘beast’ as I will be carrying ten days supplies on that trek. I wanted to check that it was comfy and up for the job. Another reason why both our rucksacks were so heavy was because of all the water we were carrying. We had five litres each, hopefully enough to last until the following afternoon. The moors were parched and it was not worth the risk of camping high and dry without anything to drink and cook with. Water is bloody heavy. Reuben carried his own water supply with two litres in his panniers.

Total Distance  – 18.5 kilometres with 500 metres ascent

Bleaklow stones

The climb onto Bleaklow via Yellow Slacks was a hot and humid one. Although late afternoon the temperature had failed to dip and I felt every gramme of my monster load. I’m glad that Geoff was equally as laden, it’s always easier if someone else is sharing the struggle. Reuben and Tilly had more life in them but were also taking things easy.

There was actually water flowing in the upper reaches of Yellowslacks Brook, at least what was in my pack was not the colour of ale. The infant stream led us to the Hern Stones, a good spot for a break before picking up the Pennine Way to Bleaklow Head.

The plan was to camp in the vicinity of Bleaklow Stones, across what used to be a wade through oozing black peat hags. It’s been a while since I have visited this side of Bleaklow and was amazed at the transformation after the recent regeneration project. The plateau is now a prairie of lush grass, no longer the dark and foreboding place it used to be. I have to say that all that grass played havoc with both myself and Geoff’s hay fever. Until I got back to the car the next afternoon it was the worst it has been for years.

I think that it is fair to say we were both a bit sloppy with the navigation on the way to Bleaklow Stones. First of all we got lured into following the path that leads into Near Black Clough. Realising our mistake we got back on track and then found ourselves veering too far south. The Bleaklow plateau is no knife-edge ridge and even in clear conditions can be a confusing place.

The grass near the stones is lush and lumpy but we both managed to find a good place to pitch our tents. It was late by the time we had done this and the sun was ready to dip below the horizon. It’s not often that you can watch the sun set from a high level camp in just a t-shirt, I did not need to put anything warmer on all night. A pleasant evening was spent emptying the contents of my hip flask before retiring to our respective tents to sneeze the night away.








I woke just after dawn to find Reuben sitting upright with his back to me, the odour then hit me. He had managed to regurgitate his dinner into a large pile of stinking mess. Not only that but he had done so in the inner of a tent that I was using for the first time. Thank you Reuben. It took a while to mop up, especially considering that I did not really have the tools for the job with me. When I finally settled back down to sleep I kept one eye open, ready to leap into action and let him out in case he decided he needed to get more out of his system.

I think it may have been Reuben that woke up Tilly in Geoff’s tent. He did not get much sleep after that when a big brown labrador decided it was getting up time.

The hot sun had me up early anyway, it’s hard to sleep when slowly being roasted. We had a lazy couple of hours around camp before packing up and setting off. My hayfever was still really bad and I was beginning to feel dreadful. I was actually looking forward to getting back to the car, winding up the windows and putting on the aircon.

We did much better at navigating back towards Bleaklow Head, this time following the widely spaced wooden poles along the ridge. Once back on the Pennine Way we saw the first people since leaving the car the previous afternoon. The nearby summit of the Snake Pass road gives very easy access to the high moors.

At the junction of Doctors Gate Geoff and I parted ways, he heading for home in Hayfield via Kinder Scout, Reuben and I returning to the car via Shelf Brook. I took my time on the Doctors Gate path, stopping frequently to rest in the hot sun, making sure that the panting Reuben drank lots of water. I had not come this way before, a grand valley leading directly into Old Glossop. It was with relief that I got back to the car and ditched the heavy pack. The hay fever and heat had wiped me out, I’m not sure if I had lost most of my fluids through sweat or snot.

Once again a short and reasonably local backpack had provided a great weekend escape from work and city living.










17 Comments to “Baking at the Bleaklow Stones”

  1. Bleaklow Stones with green grass, it looks very different now. Better for pitching probably but I rather miss its old desolate look of gritstone and sand. Good water is always the biggest problem in the Dark Peak.

    • It really is such a different place now Geoff. Yes great for pitching but hellish if you have a grass allergy! The water when it is running is truly terrible metallic tasting brown stuff. Glad that we took our own supply.

  2. Geoff was wiped out by the time he got home too!

  3. Looks like you had fantastic weather. Was there much water in the groughs near the top of the moors? (Am thinking of having a 2 day walk up there soon myself, so wondering how low down I’ll need to collect my water for the evening)

    • There really was not much at all in the groughs near the top of the moors (any water was pretty stagnant and mucky up top), this usually dries up pretty quickly. You will need to collect from a stream lower down and carry up during the summer.

  4. That is an awesome weight to carry, you have my admiration. As you say water is darned heavy to lug very far. Looks like a new tent there James?. Impressive, very, well done.

    • I felt every kilo Dawn! Yep new tent, very happy with it so far, except when the dog was sick in it! If you fancy exploring the Peak District Moors give me a shout, its my local stomping ground.

  5. Reminds me of the northern edges of Kinder, James. Lots of regeneration work there as you know too. Astonishing now, when you see the transformation. Rather rapid. I believe you need to correct the end of your blogpost from “…a great weekend escape from work and city living.” to “…a great microadventure!” 😉 😉

    • I have to admit that I have not walked the northern edges of Kinder for a while Terry, must correct that and have a camp up there. As for for microadventure, bugger that pish, I just camped out for the night………..

      • “i just camped out for the night” So do many others, and have done for years eh? 😉 🙂 Ha ha. I think we should all invent a new word for this malarky. ‘Extreme camping’. Correction, that would need to be #extremecamping 😉

  6. I did not read your report on this one until yesterday on my return from…. you guessed it….. Bleaklow Head after a perfect overnighter camping near Shining Clough Moss. I must echo your comments on the amazing appearance of the fellsides. Peat hags Jim but not as we know it. I loved the grass and the flat millstone grits. Spent a noisy night though watching the planes land and take off from Manchester. Although a jet engine is nowhere near the volume of my mates snoring, fortunately I was alone. Could not complain though as on Monday night I was on a jet landing at Manchester looking down on the moors on return from Greece.

    Like you i worried about the water and on impulse as I left the car I threw in another liter which saw me carrying two and a half just in case just slightly more than Reuben!. The water in the cloughs high up was non existent. Went up from the car park at Tor Cross, why no overnight parking?

    My first venture into the Peak District, easy to get to from Lancaster but sadly Manchester has to be struggled through, I will be back though .
    Mick Graham

    • Hi Mick. I have not parked at Tor Cross myself but have found that I have not had a problem leaving my car at Crowden. Great to hear you enjoyed your first visit there. The transformation of peat hags is nothing short of amazing. Don’t think I will return in mid summer though as I don’t think I can handle another bout of hayfever like that!

  7. Sorry James it’s Tor Side not Tor Cross my mistake. Just by the reservoir. Yes I did think of parking at Crowden but this one was quite a bit nearer.I Just ignore the no overnight parking signs now but it does irritate. Sorry to hear about the hayfever . I must not suffer from it as I was so taken with the red grasses that I was rolling around in the grass taking close ups with not so much a a snuffle.

    Great picture of Reuben today! All the best for Sweden.
    Mick graham

    • I find that the best places to park my campervan is car parks which state no overnight parking. Always get them to myself!


  8. Downstone Clough from Old Glossop and back down Doctors Gate was alwAys one of my favorite Dark Peak walks. So e really happy memories rekindled there 🙂

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