Posts tagged ‘TGO challenge’

April 11, 2015

My 2015 TGO Challenge route

by backpackingbongos

This is a cracking route, one of the best I have vetted for the 2015 Challenge, and you have mixed big hills with lesser ones, have stayed away from the main Challenge highways and have not been afraid to go cross country, your route sheet has been a pleasure to follow and your F.W.A are spot on, good on you.

I love a bit of praise I do and the above comment from my TGO vetter made me puff out my chest with pride! Mind you they may say that about everyone’s route………..

Four weeks today and I will be on day two of a backpack from the west coast to the east coast of Scotland, with hopefully the sun shining and a cool breeze caressing my back. I thought that I would do a quick blog post outlining the route that I have decided to take.

The total distance is 309 kilometres (192 miles), plenty enough for me over the space of a couple of weeks. The plan is 8 nights wild camping, 1 night in a bothy, 2 in a campsite (one is the village green in Tarfside) and 3 in Hotels / b&b’s. I’m going to send on a couple of parcels with main meals that I have dehydrated myself (being veggie the pickings can be slim in rural Highland shops) and pick up snacks locally. I only actually pass two places that have a shop anyway. The nights in hotels give me a chance to shower, rinse out some clothes and have a proper dinner and breakfast.

When planning a long backpack I always find it easier to break the route down, it then seems less daunting. The maps below show both the main and foul weather alternatives.

Part one sees me walking from Oban to Kinloch Rannoch with the opportunity to take in a couple of Munros and a scattering of lower hills. I have never visited Gorton bothy visit so am looking forward to stopping there for a night.

Screen Shot 2015-04-11 at 12.06.07

(You can click map to enlarge)

The section between Kinloch Rannoch and Braemar is the wildest of the trip. I’m looking forward to exploring the Headwaters of the Tarff. Some lonely and remote country there.

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(You can click map to enlarge)

The final section between Braemar and Inverbervie sees me joining the Challenge trade route. I’m hoping to take in a string of Munros around Lochnagar, the weather has never been good enough on previous crossings. From Tarfside I have decided to avoid the usual route to Edzell and St Cyrus. Instead a final push over low hills to Fettercairn before a slog along roads to Inverbervie and fish and chips.

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(You can click map to enlarge)

I just now need to get a bit fitter!

January 8, 2015

My route has been sent off

by backpackingbongos

After a few weeks slaving over maps my TGO Challenge route has been sent off to be vetted.

It looks something like this on a map of Scotland. Click to enlarge.

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More details when (or if) it gets approved.

November 18, 2014

I’m on

by backpackingbongos

I received a welcome letter on Saturday. I have been accepted on my third* TGO Challenge, a Coast to Coast backpack across the Scottish Highlands next May.

I have already started playing around with routes and have decided on a southerly crossing this time round. The next few weeks will be spent looking at both paper and electronic maps, whilst trying to work out how to get across Scotland without expending too much energy. No heroics from me really as I’m approaching it as a fun relaxing holiday.

Those of you that enjoy spreadsheets detailing how many pairs of socks I plan to take along with lengthy posts on the benefits of different types of tent pegs** should look elsewhere. Life is too short.

I have to say that I am mildly excited. This may change to moderately excited come February and my route has been submitted.

*It’s actually my fifth but the one I completed in 2001 from Aviemore to the east coast during the Foot and Mouth Epidemic sadly does not count. I did get a nifty baby blue t-shirt for my endeavours though. I then took part again in 2003 but after four days I said ‘Sod this for a game of soldiers’ and went home. I was not allowed a t-shirt that year.

* *My tent pegs are grey by the way, but I do also have a few red ones.

June 29, 2013

TGO Challenge 2013 – Days 13 & 14

by backpackingbongos

Day 13 – 26 Kilometres with 300 metres ascent

Day 13

One peculiar aspect of the Challenge is that most participants are always eager to pack and set off super early.  I could hear the occupants of nearby tents packing at some ungodly hour, concerned they would not be first in queue for breakfast at the nearby Retreat .  By the time I had enjoyed lazing in a warm tent, had breakfast and started to pack the campsite at Tarfside was almost empty.


Dave Pickles was also in no particular hurry either so we decided to join forces for the day for the long walk to the campsite at North Water Bridge.  I had initially planned to immediately cross the river on the rickety bridge and follow the path on the south side of the North Esk.  Dave however persuaded me to have a second breakfast at the Retreat so we set off down the road instead.

The early wave of Challengers had already passed on by the time we sat down and ordered breakfast.  After an earlier bowl of super noodles I was not that hungry but still managed a large fry-up.  My rucksack hip belt was on the tight side when we set off once more.  The walk along the road was pleasant in the sunshine with good views across the Wirren hills.  However it was tarmac and tarmac is never much fun.


I was pleased when we took the first vehicle bridge across the river, hard tarmac giving way to a nice soft grassy track.  A succession of heavy squally showers meant that I was constantly stopping to put on and take off my waterproofs.  In the end we both gave up and kept them on even during the sunny interludes.  With the wind being so strong, even with blue sky overhead there was always the risk that within minutes it would be hammering it down.

Track soon turned to tarmac once more, the hills left behind.  The rest of the challenge to the coast would be through an agricultural landscape.


The Tuck Inn at Edzell let me indulge in another plate of fried food and it was good to get my pack off and sit on a proper chair.  A quick visit to the shop and then it was head down for one of the worst sections of walking on this years Challenge.  An arrow straight road filled with lorries and fast moving traffic means a demoralising walk.  There is nothing to do but get your head down and get on with it whilst trying to avoid getting run over.  David took me along a pleasant alternative track for the last mile or so, a relief to escape the speeding traffic.

The campsite was filled with an array of lightweight tents.  The grass is flat and the facilities ok but I can’t for the life of me think why anyone would want to go there for a holiday.  For a start it’s right next door to a dual carriageway, not the best neighbour when sleeping in a tent!

A mighty downpour had everyone hiding in their tents for a while.  It would have been a wild evening to be camping in the hills, even in this sheltered spot the wind was rocking my tent.  Once the rain had passed through it was surprisingly cold so I headed to the reception area with Dave and had a few games of pool until we were kicked out.

Fully wrapped in all my clothes I sat on the benches with a few others celebrating the last night of the Challenge.  The cold soon had me heading to my tent and a warm sleeping bag.


Day 14 – 14 kilometres with 270 metres ascent

Day 14

Once again I was one of the last to pack up in the morning.  Dave had originally planned to walk directly to Montrose.  However my company must be fantastic as at the last minute he decided to accompany me to the coast at St Cyrus.

The dual carriageway of the A90 was a frightening barrier to cross, its hard to judge timings when everything is moving so fast.  Once safely on the other side a collection of minor roads took us in an easterly direction.  The final climb over the hill of Morphie feeling like a bit of a slog.

The wind throughout the day was exceptionally strong when exposed to it.  Heavy showers were blown through with a violent intensity.  On the hill of Morhie we took a right old battering.  The hills in the distance had once again turned white.  We later learned that the road above Braemar had been shut due to snow.  The only photo I took of this section manages to make it look all warm and spring like though.  It was actually the coldest day of the whole two weeks.


Walking into St Cyrus a car slowed down and we were told well done, we were nearly there.  Though the village, past the church and we were at the top of the cliffs.  The view from the top is stunning, the sea and sandy beach below looking inviting.  We set off down the steep path to dip our toes in the sea.



As a small wave dampened my shoe I’m not really sure how I felt to be honest.  A week ago I would have simply been relieved, the fear of failure was the only thing driving me on.  Now along with the sense of achievement I felt a bit sad that the walk had finished.  A few days and I would be back at work.  The simple pleasure of getting up day after day and walking was now over.

St Cyrus is a fantastic place to finish a coast to coast walk, the sandy beach backed by dunes and gorse covered cliffs.



After the obligatory posing for photos by the water’s edge it was back up the cliff path.  This really is hard work considering that the walk is officially over.  It was the thought of a good lunch before the bus to Montrose that spurred us back up. The village cafe was full of familiar happy faces, all with the satisfied glow of reaching the east coast.

The bus dropped us off in Montrose where there was a short walk to the Park Hotel to sign in.  The place was buzzing with Challengers and it was good to meet with familiar faces once again.  I walked to the campsite, pitched, showered, dozed and then returned to the Park later that evening for the Challenge dinner.  A great end to my second TGO Challenge.

Reflecting on the Challenge

It’s easy to have a romantic vision of a backpacking trip before setting off.  For the TGO Challenge I imagined myself following a high level route each day, camping on the summits with fantastic views.  I would be climbing the peaks with little effort and spending long lunch breaks brewing up in the sun, a gentle breeze cooling me down.

Obviously I’m no fool and did not really imagine that I would spend two weeks like that, but it would be nice!  The realities of Scotland in May is a certain amount of bad weather, ticks and the fact that you are nowhere near as fit as you had hoped.  This year I had to add into the mix a foot injury, which was very painful and put a big black cloud over a few days, along with doubts I would finish.

I have wondered how my enjoyment of the Challenge could be represented in graphical form.  Therefore I have carefully constructed the following bit of art just for you (just to prove that my Humanities Degree did not go to waste).

Graph 001

As you can see, it started off very well.  There was a slight dip in the enjoyability factor due to the first weeks weather but I perked up after a comfy bed for the night.  It then went a bit wrong which culminated in me standing near Kingussie station thinking about catching a train home.  During the final week things got better and better and better.

I’m not a naturally outgoing or particularly social person.  However I found that the more I made an effort (which can be difficult after a 16 mile day) when in civilisation the more I enjoyed myself.  It has now dawned on me that I could go and walk across Scotland at any time I please.  It is the social side of the Challenge that makes it much more than just a walk.

Will I do it again?  Yes.  Will I do it next year?  Undecided, there are so many things I want to do!

June 27, 2013

TGO Challenge 2013 – Days 11 & 12

by backpackingbongos

Day 11 – 26 kilometres with 860 metres ascent

Day 11

I think that one of the reasons I’m veggie is because I crave disappointment.  This is certainly always the case at breakfast time in a Scottish b&b.  You watch the other guests being plied with piles of food to set them up for the day, you then receive a very lonely looking egg which constitutes the veggie option.

I had stocked up the night before in the local co-op, which involved mindlessly stuffing anything I fancied into a basket.  This became a problem that morning as I struggled to get everything into my pack.  In the end a large packet of bagels had to be sacrificed and left behind.  With my pack heavier than it had been since the west coast I set off in search of the path that would take me to a spot marked the Lions Face on my map.

I have to admit that I got a bit confused upon entering the woods as there appeared to be two routes to the Lions Face.  I found myself on a path that circles below Creag Choinnich instead of climbing directly upwards.  This is because I ended up following a couple of Challengers whose names I don’t know but will refer to as the ‘yellow rucksack cover couple’.  Nearly everyday I would see their yellow rucksack covers somewhere in the distance.

Luckily the path continued above the busy A93 for a while before it disappeared back up hill.  A march along the road led to Invercauld bridge, a relief as I get nervous of vehicles speeding past me at 60+mph with only inches to spare.  It was whilst having a break after the bridge that I realised I had taken something from the b&b with me.  My room key was still in my pocket!  There was no way that I was going back to return it.

It was a pleasant amble through the woods to Connachat cottage.  Although never far from the main road it was quiet and peaceful with hardly a soul around.  At Connachat I made a bit of a silly navigation error, taking a path on the wrong side of the stream.  I had climbed a while before noticing and rather than turn back I decided to make a beeline cross-country to the path I was meant to be on.  This went well until I was faced with a large area of bog.  Thankfully there was a plank of wood over one section that I really should have tested before committing my weight.  It broke in two plunging one leg into the slimy depths up to the knee, jarring my bad foot in the process.  I pulled myself out, cursing my stupidity.  Surely I had properly buggered up my foot now, time to admit defeat and go home?  No, for some reason that little tumble had done the trick, I had no more foot problems for the rest of the crossing!

Back on track I slowly climbed, the forest thinning out to give some great views.



As the last of the trees were left behind, the track turned ninety degrees and the satellite peaks of Lochnagar started to reveal themselves.  It was good to be among the mountains again, although I wished that I was walking the summits.  However now my focus was reaching the east coast by Thursday.  The summits could wait for another time.


The ‘yellow rucksack cover couple’ were having lunch on the bench outside Gelder Shiel bothy.  I joined them, getting my stove out to cook some couscous and make some coffee.  They were soon off and I took the opportunity to remove my shoes and socks to air my feet.  I think that it is important on a long walk to let air get to your feet as often as possible, especially if wearing trail shoes.  It’s a good way to avoid prune feet which can eventually lead to blisters.

My original plan had been to stop at Gelder Shiel for the night as it was recommended by my vetters.  After poking my head in the bothy I decided that it was not a place I wanted to stay.  It was dark and dingy with little natural light, it also did not have a fireplace and had a damp feeling to it.  Not a place I will be heading to in the future.

The map shows a path heading upstream to connect with the track over the watershed.  I found the beginnings of it near a plantation but this quickly petered out leaving me floundering in bog.  The plantation fence had been torn down and many of the young trees ripped apart.  It looked like a tornado had torn though it which I hope is the case rather than vandalism.

A trackless bit of heather bashing led me to the track which gave a pleasant and well graded amble up to the 700 metre contour.  Although getting increasingly murky the views were still good, especially Lochnagar before it vanished under a blanket of cloud.




I was getting tired but I was spurred on by the promise of soup and coffee at the Spittal of Glenmuick visitor centre.  As I reached the small building there were several Challengers resting before their final pull up to the Shielin of Mark bothy.  My luck was out with regards to soup but a hot coffee went down a treat whilst I asked the warden on suitable pitches below the bothy.  She was super helpful and knowledgeable and pointed out a spot on my map.  The other Challengers set off before me and I followed them up the Allt Darrarie which runs though a deep and narrow glen.


The identified spot did indeed provide some good camping and I wasted no time in pitching the Scarp.  The weather was closing in, the mist enveloping the higher slopes.  There was a good procession of people passing as I set up camp, all heading in the direction of the Shielin of Mark.  One chap who I think is called Pete appeared not to be in the best of health, possibly suffering from a chest infection. His walking partner had passed about ten minutes before and disappeared into the murk.  I hoped that Pete would be ok as he slowly headed higher up the glen.

I was soon cosy in my tent, enjoying the simple pleasures of brewing up and reading my kindle.  I heard familiar voices and stuck my head out to be greeted by Alan, Andy and Phil.  They appeared to have had a good day up on Lochnagar and were heading a bit further before looking for a place to pitch.  They pointed out I had company as a couple of tents had appeared nearby.

Left to my own devices once more I had another enjoyable wild camp.


Day 12 – 21 kilometres with 480 metres ascent

Day 12

As I was cooking breakfast my next door neighbours passed by.  It turned out that one of them was Willem who has popped by a few times to say hello on this blog.  We were certain that our paths would cross on the Challenge.

By the time I had packed up the mist and low cloud was finally lifting, leaving the promise of a nice day.  The climb to the head of the glen was a pleasant one, a narrow path leading me through the heather.


As the glen widened out and joined the plateau the immediate landscape reminded me of the wilder parts of Bleaklow in the Peak District.  However the distant bulk of Lochnagar gave the game away.



Towards the top of the glen I passed the remains of the biggest bank of snow that I have ever seen.  It was glacier like in its proportions, with no one to stand in front of it to give scale there was little point in photographing it.  It was mightily impressive though.

I followed the meandering stream for a while before plunging straight up through rough slopes of bog and heather in the general direction of the Shielin of Mark bothy.  I was pleased to see the bothy below after a spot of bog hopping, my casual approach to navigation had worked this time.

From the outside it’s a lovely little building in a vast sea of high moorland, Mount Keen a gentle swell on the eastern horizon.  Unfortunately the inside was exceptionally damp, the bothy book little more than paper mache.  It seriously needs someone to spend a few days with half a ton of coal to dry it out.


My next destination was Muckle cairn on the nearby horizon and I managed to pick a route to the summit by following the lighter patches of dry grass.  The view back towards Lochnagar and across to Mount Keen gave an impression of vast open spaces.  Rough, bleak places, I love them.



A rough track was picked up near the summit which made progress quick and easy towards the east.  Here the open plateau was broken by smaller, rounded hills with a patchwork of burnt heather.  It was clear that I was heading into grouse shooting country.


Down in Glen Lee I found a comfy spot to sit for a while and got my stove on and my shoes and socks off.  The last couple of days weather had given me the opportunity to have leisurely lunches, which is what backpacking should be all about.  The sun finally broke out and the skies turned blue.  Spirits were already good but I felt them lift even higher.  One day I will do a Challenge when everyday will be like that.  I had discussions with people on the crossing where they felt it would be boring if the weather was nice all the time.  I don’t think that I could be bored with sunshine and dry socks.


Further down the glen I could hear the roar of water, the Falls of Unich looked a magnificent sight even from a distance.  If I came this way again I think the area around there would make a fine campsite.

For once I was finding myself too warm rather than wet and cold, a novel experience on this crossing.  I stopped for a rest and was caught up by a local chap who knew all about the Challenge.  He said that he was looking forward to heading to the Masons Arms later that afternoon to join in with the drinking.


I passed Loch Lee, the track finally joining the head of the public road.  A short distance later and a hill track signed for Tarfside led me through pleasant grassy pastures and over the shoulder of the Hill of Rowen with its massive cairn shaped monument.  Upper Glen Esk is a rather picturesque place.




Although not a particularly long day I was pleased to finally arrive in Tarfside.  Just outside the Masons Arms I was greeted with a hug by David Pickles.  David is the Dartmoor policeman that I walked with for a couple of days on the 2011 Challenge.  He is a thoroughly decent chap and I reckon that if Hamish Macbeth had been filmed in Devon he would have been well cast.

I was going to go and pitch my tent on the sports field but Alan Sloman would not allow me to do that until he had got me a drink.  Well it would be rude to refuse!

After a drink on an empty stomach I wobbled off and popped the tent up on the soft green mowed grass, a welcome change from the usual ticks and tussocks of the last couple of weeks.  I enjoyed lazing for a while, eating and watching the general hustle and bustle of a field full of Challengers.  There was even a delivery of fish and chips but I was keen to eat the food I had lugged all the way from Braemar.

Soon most people were heading for the Masons Arms where I spent one of the best evenings of my Challenge.  The atmosphere was warm and convivial and the company good.  The following day I would be leaving the mountains behind and heading into rural Angus.